Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Alan Richman disrespects Jersey pizza!

In this month's GQ magazine, food columnist Alan Richman has ordained what he thinks are the 25 best pizza pies in all of the U.S.A. After gobbling pies from coast to coast, he crowned the country's very best pizzas: from the mortadella pie at Great Lake in Chicago to the margherita pizza from Una Pizza Napoletana in New York City.
I've never been to Great Lake, but I have two thoughts—one positive, one ragingly negative.
After reading Mr. Richman's list (and full disclosure: I used to work with the esteemed food writer and think very highly of his writing and foodie opinions) here are my thoughts:
-I LOVE that one of my most favorite pizza joints (and by joint, I mean joint) made the list: Santarpio's in East Boston, Mass.
I used to work in East Boston, and no offense, but one of the only good things about working in East Boston is being able to stop at the back door of the Santarpio's kitchen (yes, the kitchen)  on the way home from work to pick up a pizza to go.
I have dreams about the tangy delicious tomato sauce that topped their perfect crusts.
Interestingly enough, Richman noted the sausage pie, which is very good, but I think the plain pie is just as worthy of our adoration.
The next time you land at Logan Airport, take the last exit before you head through the tunnel into the city proper, and go to Santarpio's for a cheese pie— it's better than a pot of baked beans I assure you.
Now for my complaint, where's the Jersey representation!? What the friggin frick!
I mean, come on.
Providence, RI gets 2 pizzerias!
New Haven, CT gets 2!
NYC gets 5 (and didn't include the original Patsy's in East Harlem)!
Michigan gets 4!!!!
San Francisco 3?
Philly gets 2!
And Jersey...0
Come on. New Jersey has a fine, and very well-respected history of pizza making, specifically of another regional specialty known as the bar pie.
This weekend we went to one of the best: Star Tavern in Orange, NJ.
Their specialty--the eggplant topped pizza (see photo up top).

Fried pieces of eggplant on a thin-crust pie, sharing real estate with crispy circles of thick pepperoni— it's bar pie perfection.
And how about Kinchley's in Ramsey, NJ?
Richman claims to have ventured into Jersey--but where did he go?
Were these establishments overlooked?
Not good enough?
Does it just come down to an affliction towards anything bridge and tunnel?
Yes, I'm hardly objective. I have a deep love for the Jersey pie because it's in my blood and my credentials run deep. I grew up eating at the great pizzerias of Essex County, NJ: bar pies in the back room of Bunny's; delivery from the Reservoir; sicilian slices on the way home from school at Four Brothers; Friday night pick-up pies at the King of Pizza on Springfield Avenue (before the place was suspiciously blown to smithereens--Jersey!).
But I feel this neglect by Mr. Richman is unjust--Jersey may not have squash pies topped with pine nuts or rosemary sprigs, but they still have something special. Really.
So what's your favorite pie?
Did it make the list?
—Caroline

7 comments:

Anonymous said...

Roman Gourmet in Maplewood and Village Trattoria in Maplewood? Joe's pizza in Union?

There are some amazing pizzas in NJ.

Caroline and Leslie said...

true true, anon.
although I haven't had Roman Gourmet in some time...does it hold up with the rest?

BM said...

I live in Bloomfield and frequent Star Tavern on a regular basis, so I emphatically agree with you. Grimaldi's in Hoboken? Pete and Elda's in Neptune? Come on!

Anonymous said...

Kinchley's is the BEST!

Anonymous said...

Roman Gourmet was very very good.
Bunny's was very very good.
Arturo's is very very good!

Totonnos is very very good.
Lombardis is very very good.

Pizza Hut is not very good.
Domino's is not very good.

Anonymous said...

Quite frankly, I find most of the Pizza in NJ very pedestrian. All shops appear to use the same supply house (roma) , the same canned tomatoes (Roma), the same cheap boxes and soda cups (roma)...

Can anyone tell me who this Frank guy is anyway, since he has a below average pizza joint in every strip mall in Somerset and Morris county

Deb Schiff said...

We love the pizza joint just down the road in Somerset, Village Pizza. They offer a truly tasty whole wheat pie with eggplant.

In Verona, right before you get into Montclair on Bloomfield Ave, there's a place on the corner of Rt. 23 that's pretty tasty, too. Can't remember the name.

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